GHL Journal, ,[11]-18 May 1857
Title
GHL Journal, ,[11]-18 May 1857
Title
GHL Journal, ,[11]-18 May 1857
Sender
Ghl Journal
Recipient
U
Date(s)
- 1857-05-11–<br /> 1857-05-18
Place
Isles of Scilly
Letter Content
GHL Journal, ,[11]-18 May 1857
MS: Yale. Brief extracts published: Kitchel, p. 174.
Monday 18th.
This day week we quitted Scilly. There was a dead calm which prevented our starting at the appointed time, so that we had to hang about without books or occupation, walking on the Hill, and reading newspapers till 1. At two we started, and after a very calm passage reached Penzance at 'bd past 10. Not sick, nor even nauseous. We went to Dingley's Private Hotel -- very comfortable. Next morning after breakfast I called on R. Q. Couch, 856 the Naturalist, who showed me his drawings and collections, and gave me several of his papers. He interested me by his talk. M. and I then went for a walk through fields and lanes, relishing the greenery and trees, after Scilly. In the evening Couch called and sat three hours chatting very pleasantly.
On Wednesday morning at 7 we started by Omnibus, outside, for Falmouth which we reached at 'bd past 10. After a wash, and a lunch we walked to the castle; basked on the rocks; came slowly back, buying Miss Austen's [Emma] and [Sense and Sensibility.] I called on Cocks, 857 the naturalist, a character and a guy. He is old now, not unlike Jervis, 858 wearing a black skull cap, green spectacles, and wool over his teeth. He twaddled furiously, and said nothing sensible or interesting. Came home and amused Marian by imitations of him.
On Thursday morning at 8 we left per Steamer for Plymouth: horrible fog all the way, in consequence of which we nearly ran down two boats, and very nearly ran ashore. Reached at 'bd past 1. Went on shore and dined. Started again at 6 for Jersey which we reached on Friday morning at 10. Very calm passage.
Friday 15th.
The first aspect of St. Helier's was quite novel to me. I had not seen it since 1829, 859 and the place was of course much changed; except the Fort and Elizabeth castle nothing wore a familiar aspect till I got to the Royal Square, and then the old boyish feelings came back. The Square seemed so much smaller! Broad St., the theatre, the market, and a few other places were revived; but for the rest the place seemed as much changed as I. Why should I have expected to find it otherwise? 860 We went to the Union Hotel in the Square. After lunch we set out to buy boots, get hair cut, get letters, and look for lodgings. We walked all the way to St. Aubin's without finding anything quite suitable, as to money and zoological requirements. Came back in the 'Bus.
Saturday 16th.
After breakfast took the Omnibus to Gorey. The ride very pretty. The contrast between Scilly and the smiling richness of the fields and orchards here very refreshing. Took lodgings at Rosa Cottage, 13/ a week for three rooms and attendance. Went back to St. Helier's bought wine, brandy, groceries, paper, map etc. hired an easy chair, and a bath; dined at the Hotel and had a fly to carry us here, where we unpacked our things and went tired to bed.
Sunday 17th.
Walk on the sands after breakfast. Wrote letters. Delicious walk; sat on Castle hill and M. read Emma aloud. In the evening a long walk on the sands to St. Clements. Spoke with a fisherman and engaged him to bring me refuse from the trawl. 861
Monday 18th.
Walk on the sands. Revised my Sea-Side Studies No. II and journalized. After lunch, an exquisite walk in the vale of Queen's farm. At all times such a place would be charming but after Scilly, its rich uplands and clustering trees were inexpressibly delightful. There was a pool overhung by oaks and ash trees, -- on the opposite side with a meadow of buttercups, a white winding path on our side, and on the surface a mass of white flowers looking like snow, and in the depths a small forest of shrubs -- the pool brought back boyish days with a sweet reminiscence. -- In the evening Marian read Emma aloud.
MS: Yale. Brief extracts published: Kitchel, p. 174.
Monday 18th.
This day week we quitted Scilly. There was a dead calm which prevented our starting at the appointed time, so that we had to hang about without books or occupation, walking on the Hill, and reading newspapers till 1. At two we started, and after a very calm passage reached Penzance at 'bd past 10. Not sick, nor even nauseous. We went to Dingley's Private Hotel -- very comfortable. Next morning after breakfast I called on R. Q. Couch, 856 the Naturalist, who showed me his drawings and collections, and gave me several of his papers. He interested me by his talk. M. and I then went for a walk through fields and lanes, relishing the greenery and trees, after Scilly. In the evening Couch called and sat three hours chatting very pleasantly.
On Wednesday morning at 7 we started by Omnibus, outside, for Falmouth which we reached at 'bd past 10. After a wash, and a lunch we walked to the castle; basked on the rocks; came slowly back, buying Miss Austen's [Emma] and [Sense and Sensibility.] I called on Cocks, 857 the naturalist, a character and a guy. He is old now, not unlike Jervis, 858 wearing a black skull cap, green spectacles, and wool over his teeth. He twaddled furiously, and said nothing sensible or interesting. Came home and amused Marian by imitations of him.
On Thursday morning at 8 we left per Steamer for Plymouth: horrible fog all the way, in consequence of which we nearly ran down two boats, and very nearly ran ashore. Reached at 'bd past 1. Went on shore and dined. Started again at 6 for Jersey which we reached on Friday morning at 10. Very calm passage.
Friday 15th.
The first aspect of St. Helier's was quite novel to me. I had not seen it since 1829, 859 and the place was of course much changed; except the Fort and Elizabeth castle nothing wore a familiar aspect till I got to the Royal Square, and then the old boyish feelings came back. The Square seemed so much smaller! Broad St., the theatre, the market, and a few other places were revived; but for the rest the place seemed as much changed as I. Why should I have expected to find it otherwise? 860 We went to the Union Hotel in the Square. After lunch we set out to buy boots, get hair cut, get letters, and look for lodgings. We walked all the way to St. Aubin's without finding anything quite suitable, as to money and zoological requirements. Came back in the 'Bus.
Saturday 16th.
After breakfast took the Omnibus to Gorey. The ride very pretty. The contrast between Scilly and the smiling richness of the fields and orchards here very refreshing. Took lodgings at Rosa Cottage, 13/ a week for three rooms and attendance. Went back to St. Helier's bought wine, brandy, groceries, paper, map etc. hired an easy chair, and a bath; dined at the Hotel and had a fly to carry us here, where we unpacked our things and went tired to bed.
Sunday 17th.
Walk on the sands after breakfast. Wrote letters. Delicious walk; sat on Castle hill and M. read Emma aloud. In the evening a long walk on the sands to St. Clements. Spoke with a fisherman and engaged him to bring me refuse from the trawl. 861
Monday 18th.
Walk on the sands. Revised my Sea-Side Studies No. II and journalized. After lunch, an exquisite walk in the vale of Queen's farm. At all times such a place would be charming but after Scilly, its rich uplands and clustering trees were inexpressibly delightful. There was a pool overhung by oaks and ash trees, -- on the opposite side with a meadow of buttercups, a white winding path on our side, and on the surface a mass of white flowers looking like snow, and in the depths a small forest of shrubs -- the pool brought back boyish days with a sweet reminiscence. -- In the evening Marian read Emma aloud.
Citation
Ghl Journal, GHL Journal, ,[11]-18 May 1857, Complete George Eliot Letters(2026), George Eliot Archive, edited by Beverley Park Rilett. https://GeorgeEliotArchive.org, Accessed September 7, 2026. https://georgeeliotarchive.org/items/show/94293